Getting the Most Out of Military Surplus
Military surplus offers some of the toughest, most cost-effective outdoor clothing and field gear you can find. Whether you need an indestructible pair of combat trousers for weekend bushcraft, a windproof smock for hill walking, or hard-wearing workwear that will not fall apart on the job site, surplus kit delivers proven utility.
However, buying surplus online is different from walking into a high-street clothing retailer. You are dealing with gear originally manufactured under strict military contracts for armed forces across the globe, alongside modern commercial kit built for civilian outdoor use. To get the perfect piece of kit on the first try, you need to understand how condition grades work, how military sizing translates to UK measurements, and why a brief wash or airing out is often part of the process.
Understanding Condition Grades
Surplus gear arrives in various states depending on whether it sat in an armory depot for decades or saw active service in the field. To take the guesswork out of ordering, all surplus and outdoor kit is inspected by hand and sorted into clear, standardised grades.
Supergrade
Supergrade represents genuine military surplus at its absolute best. These items are either completely unissued new-old-stock or have been issued and barely worn. The fabric remains crisp and stiff, colours are unfaded, and all original hardware—from brass snaps to heavy-duty zips—is in pristine working condition. If you want genuine military-spec construction with a factory-fresh appearance, Supergrade is the tier to look for.
Grade 1
Grade 1 is the backbone of the surplus market. These are genuine issue items that have seen active service, but remain in good, serviceable condition with plenty of life left in them. You should expect subtle signs of use, such as gentle fading on high-wear spots, previous soldiers’ names written on internal labels, or small, professionally stitched field repairs. Every zipper, button, and buckle on a Grade 1 item is checked to make sure it functions properly. For working gear, hiking, and everyday outdoor chores, Grade 1 offers the best balance of price and performance.
Distressed (Grade 2)
Distressed gear consists of genuine issue kit that shows heavy use and visible character. These pieces may have noticeable fading, small fabric snags, minor holes, missing secondary buttons, or faint stains from grease and field use. Distressed gear is not meant for parade grounds, but it is great for dirty tasks like gardening, mechanics, rough labour, or DIY gear modifications where you do not want to worry about ruining pristine clothing.
Commercial Reproductions and Civilian Kit
Alongside genuine government issue kit, modern commercial gear from trusted manufacturers like Mil-Tec, Kombat UK, and Helikon-Tex fills an important role in outdoor wardrobes. Commercial copies and civilian kit arrive brand new in original retail packaging, completely free from storage dust or previous wear. They use standard high-street sizing (Small, Medium, Large, XL), making fitting straightforward, and are often made with lighter modern polycotton blends that dry rapidly and feel comfortable right out of the bag for casual daily wear, dog walking, and airsoft.
Sizing Decoded: NATO Numbers to UK Inches
One of the biggest hurdles when buying surplus is military sizing. Most genuine European and British issue items use NATO metric sizing codes printed on internal labels—for example, a NATO jacket size might read 180/104 (representing a height of 180 cm and a chest circumference of 104 cm), while trousers list inside leg, waist, and seat measurements in centimetres.
To make shopping simple, these complex label numbers are converted into standard UK inches (such as 38" Chest or 34" Waist) and UK shoe sizes across product descriptions, with updated conversion charts rolling out across the catalogue. When choosing your size, keep two practical rules in mind:
- Surplus is cut for layering: Combat smocks and field parkas are deliberately cut generously through the shoulders and chest so soldiers could wear thermal jumpers, body armour, or fleece liners underneath. If you prefer a trimmer, modern civilian fit and only plan to wear a T-shirt underneath, you may want to drop down one chest size.
- Always try it on before sending it back: Military tags can look unfamiliar, and a garment laid flat might look larger than a modern fashion jacket. Put the item on, wear your typical outdoor mid-layers underneath, and move around. You will often find the cut fits your range of motion far better than it looked on the hanger.
Dealing with Storage Scent: Washing and Airing Out
When unboxing genuine military surplus, you may notice a distinctive, earthy depot scent. This is completely normal. To preserve fabrics and metal hardware from damp and insect damage during years in storage depots, military logistics channels used preservation compounds and sealed storage crates.
To keep surplus prices as low and accessible as possible, items are sold in their "as stored" condition rather than being laundered in bulk before dispatch. Getting rid of the depot scent is simple and straightforward:
- Air the garment outdoors: Hang the item on a sturdy hanger outside on a breezy, dry day for 24 to 48 hours. Fresh air and sunlight naturally break down most storage odours without any washing required.
- Follow the care label wash: If airing is not enough, run the garment through a standard gentle machine wash using mild detergent, adhering to the temperature instructions on the interior label. Adding a small splash of white vinegar to the rinse cycle works wonders at neutralising stubborn depot storage scent.
- Drip dry: Avoid high-heat commercial tumble dryers for military cotton and polycotton fabrics to prevent unwanted shrinkage, especially on vintage garments. Hang them to dry naturally.
The 60-Day Returns Policy and Sizing Exchanges
Finding the exact right fit in surplus gear should never feel like a gamble. With an extended 60-day return policy, you have two full months from the day your package arrives to inspect your gear, test the fit with your existing layers, and decide if it works for you.
If you need a different size or wish to return an item, keep these standard steps in mind:
- Condition: Items must be returned in the exact condition received—unworn outdoors, unwashed, and with all original tags or packaging intact.
- Packaging care: Always place the returned product inside an outer mailing bag or cardboard postage box. Never stick courier labels, stamps, or tape directly onto original product boxes or retail packaging, as this ruins the box for future use.
- UK exchanges: If you are in the UK and need an alternate size, simply include a note with your order number, name, and requested replacement size in the package.
- International orders: For orders outside the UK, sizing exchanges are handled by returning the original item for a full refund and placing a fresh order online for the new size. Remember to mark customs forms clearly as "RETURNED GOODS" to prevent unnecessary import fees.
Practical Tips for Your Next Surplus Purchase
When selecting your next piece of kit, take a moment to grab a flexible tape measure. Check your actual chest and waist measurements rather than relying on your current high-street denim tag, as vanity sizing in modern fashion often differs from military specifications. Match your measured dimensions to the converted UK sizing, decide which condition grade matches your budget and intended activity, and give your new gear a quick wash or outdoor airing once it arrives.